Saturia
Upazila of Manikganj
How to Reach Saturia
The easiest way to reach Saturia from Dhaka is to take a Dhaka–Nagarpur bus from Gabtoli Bus Terminal. This service was previously known as SB Link, but it now operates under the name Dhaka–Nagarpur. The bus travels through Dhamrai, Kalampur, and Saturia before reaching Nagarpur in Tangail District.
The bus fare is BDT 80 per person, and the journey usually takes around 2 hours. However, on Thursdays a large weekly market is held at Dhamrai Kalampur, which can increase travel time to nearly 3 hours due to heavy traffic.
Tourist Places in Saturia
Baliati Palace
Historical Landmark
When people talk about Baliati Zamindar Bari, they usually visit only this section and leave after exploring it. However, this is actually the Eastern House (Purba Bari), which was built much later than the original complex.
To truly understand the history of Baliati, you have to explore the Western House (Paschim Bari), Northern House (Uttar Bari), Gola Bari, and Middle House (Madhya Bari), each of which played an important role in the history of this remarkable zamindar estate
According to local history, a young man named Mahesh Ram Saha came to Baliati and found work with a betel leaf merchant. He lived and worked in the merchant's house. Later, he married the merchant's daughter and remained there as a resident son-in-law. His son was Ganesh Ram, and one of Ganesh Ram's sons, Gobinda Ram Saha, became the founder of the Baliati Zamindar family.
Around the middle of the eighteenth century, in the 1750s, Gobinda Ram Saha was a successful salt merchant. Together with his four sons—Ananda Ram, Dadhi Ram, Pandit Ram, and Gopal Ram—he established the family's first residence, now known as the Northern House (Uttar Bari).
To store his salt for trading, Gobinda Ram built a warehouse that is now known as Gola Bari. As his sons grew up, they began constructing their own residences around 1790. Ananda Ram built what is now called the Middle House (Madhya Bari), while Dadhi Ram established the Western House (Paschim Bari).
Baliati Government Primary School:
In 1918, Radha Ballabh Free Primary School was established in front of Radha Ballabh temple. In 1964, the school was relocated at its present location and renamed Baliati M.F.P. School. Today it is known as Baliati Government Primary School, which we visited earlier.
The Western House (Paschim Bari)
Dadhi Ram Saha was the ancestor of the Western House branch of the Baliati Zamindar family. Through successful trade in salt, betel nut, rice, and other commodities in places such as Sirajganj, Narayanganj, and Jhalokathi, the family accumulated immense wealth. As their prosperity increased, they gradually purchased zamindari estates and taluks, eventually becoming part of the influential landed aristocracy of eastern Bengal.
Dadhi Ram Saha had two sons, Nityananda Roy and Ray Chand. After they grew up, Ray Chand moved to the Eastern House (Purba Bari), which we visited earlier, while Nityananda Roy remained here at the Western House.
Nityananda Roy's two sons, Brindaban Roy and Jagannath Roy, expanded the family's influence by acquiring large zamindari estates across Dhaka, Mymensingh, Barishal, Faridpur, and Tripura. This established them among the prominent zamindars of eastern Bengal.
They also installed a magnificent black stone idol of Radha Ballabh (Lord Krishna), accompanied by Radhika and Lalita Sakhi, at Baliati. We will visit this beautiful temple shortly.
Historical records mention that before his death, Jagannath Roy Chowdhury entrusted the responsibility of managing the estate, along with the care of his three underage sons, to the estate manager Girish Chandra Dutta. When the sons became adults, Girish Chandra wished to hand over the management to the eldest son, Kishori Lal Roy Chowdhury. However, Kishori Lal requested that Girish Chandra continue managing the estate because of his experience. Girish Chandra, however, declined the proposal.
Kishori Lal Roy Chowdhury was born in this very house on 19 November 1848. Although he did not receive a higher formal education, he made remarkable contributions to education in Bengal.
In 1868, he assumed responsibility for the Dhaka Brahma School, which had been established in 1866. In 1872, he renamed it Jagannath School in memory of his father. On 4 July 1884, he upgraded the institution into Jagannath College, which has since evolved into today's Jagannath University.
In 1887, he separated Jagannath School from the college and relocated it to Bangla Bazar, where he established Kishori Lal Jubilee High School, named after himself.
His contributions to education extended even further. In 1921, he established Jagannath Hall at the University of Dhaka for students from religious minority communities.
Kishori Lal was also a great patron of the performing arts. To promote theatre in Dhaka, he established a stage known as Malancha, which later became the famous Lions Cinema. He also financed and supported the renowned Diamond Jubilee Theatre in Dhaka.
Kishori Lal had no children. He passed away on 3 July 1925.
His younger brother, Yashoda Lal Roy Chowdhury, established an allopathic charitable hospital in Baliati. Today, the facility operates under the government as the Baliati Sub-Health Centre, continuing to provide healthcare services to local residents.
The noted artist Khagendra Nath Saha also spent many valuable years of his life at the Western House.
For generations, the Rath Yatra Festival was celebrated beside the large palm pond of the Western House. Today, due to a lack of open space for pulling the chariot, the festival is held near the Kali Temple in Baliati Old Bazaar.
On the western bank of this same pond, Shitala Puja and Hanuman Puja have been celebrated continuously since 1315 Bengali Era (1908 AD) under the patronage of the zamindars. After the decline of the zamindar family, local devotees have continued these religious traditions. In recent years, the temple complex has also hosted Mahanam Yajna and Radha-Krishna devotional Kirtan festivals with great devotion and enthusiasm.
Today, the Western House has been divided into four separate privately owned properties. Modern buildings are being constructed within the historic estate, and unless proper conservation efforts are taken, this remarkable heritage dating back to the 1770s may gradually disappear forever.
The Middle House (Madhya Bari)
The ancestor of the Middle House branch was Ananda Ram Saha. His son was Shambhu Charan Saha. Shambhu Charan's daughter, Kiranmala Devi, married the zamindar of Mirzapur, Ranada Prasad Saha, widely known as R. P. Saha.
Initially, R. P. Saha wanted to establish a large charitable hospital here in Baliati. However, due to opposition and a lack of permission from the local zamindars, he abandoned the plan. Instead, he built the famous Kumudini Hospital in his native village of Mirzapur, Tangail, in 1938, where it continues to serve thousands of patients today.
Radha Ballabh Temple:
History credits Brindaban Roy and Jagannath Roy, the two sons of Nityananda Roy, with installing the beautiful black stone idol of Radha Ballabh (Lord Krishna), accompanied by Radhika and Lalita Sakhi, at Baliati. However, there is an interesting historical inconsistency. The temple itself was established in 1288 Bengali Era (1881 AD), while Jagannath Roy died in 1864. Therefore, it is more likely that the idol was installed by his son, Kishori Lal Roy Chowdhury.
Many years later, in 1918, Radha Ballabh Free Primary School was established in front of this temple. In 1964, the school was relocated and renamed Baliati M.F.P. School. Today it is known as Baliati Government Primary School, which we visited earlier.
Baliati Old Bazaar Kali Temple
Around 1936, Chuni Lal, the adopted son of Hira Lal, the zamindar of the Middle House, established this Kali Temple in Baliati Old Bazaar in memory of his father. Worship is still performed here regularly.
On the eastern side of the temple stands a full-length statue of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose in military uniform. The reinforced cement statue is believed to date back to the 1940s.
Baliati Gola Bari
This house is known as Gola Bari because it originally served as a large warehouse for storing salt, one of the family's most profitable trading commodities.
Every year, twelve days after the Dol Purnima festival, the famous Baruni Fair was held in the courtyard of Gola Bari. Today, the fair is organized in Baliati Old Bazaar instead.
The zamindars of Gola Bari were deeply religious, and daily worship was performed in the family temple. Sadly, during Bangladesh's War of Independence in 1971, both the temple's sacred idols and valuable property from Gola Bari were looted by the Pakistani army and their local collaborators, the Razakars.
Baliati Northern House (Uttar Bari)
According to historical records, this is where the Baliati Zamindar family first settled.
It was here that Gobinda Ram Saha established the family's earliest residence together with his four sons—Pandit Ram, Dadhi Ram, Ananda Ram, and Gopal Ram. Nearby, he built Gola Bari to store the family's salt before it was transported for trade.
These four sons grew up in this very house before establishing their own separate residences, which later became the famous zamindar houses of Baliati.
It's difficult to believe that the birthplace of the entire Baliati Zamindar family receives so little care and preservation today.
Ramakrishna Math and Mission
Ramakrishna Paramahamsa (1836–1886) is regarded as the spiritual inspiration behind the Ramakrishna Order. He served as the priest of the Dakshineswar Kali Temple near Kolkata and attracted many disciples and spiritual seekers.
Shortly before his death in 1886, Ramakrishna symbolically presented saffron robes to his young disciples, who wished to embrace monastic life. One of those robes can still be seen here today. He entrusted the leadership of these young monks to his foremost disciple, Swami Vivekananda.
After Ramakrishna's passing, his disciples devoted themselves to spiritual practice and, on the night of 24 December 1886, informally took their monastic vows.
Later that year, they established the first Ramakrishna Monastery at Baranagar near Kolkata.
Swami Vivekananda later travelled throughout India as a wandering monk before representing Hinduism at the Parliament of the World's Religions in Chicago in 1893. His famous opening words, "Sisters and Brothers of America," received a standing ovation and made him internationally renowned.
During his travels, Vivekananda delivered lectures on Hindu philosophy and spirituality and founded the first Vedanta Society in New York. Returning to India in 1897, he established the Ramakrishna Mission on 1 May.
Although Vivekananda was a Hindu monk and one of the earliest global ambassadors of Hindu philosophy, he consistently encouraged people to remain faithful to their own religions while respecting all faiths. Reflecting the teachings of his guru, Ramakrishna, he believed that every religion represents a different path to the same Divine Truth.
One of Vivekananda's well-known teachings illustrates this idea:
"A person may be born in a church, but should not die in one."
By this, he meant that spiritual growth requires personal realization rather than blindly accepting inherited beliefs.
In the same year that the Ramakrishna Mission was founded, Swami Akhandananda, a direct disciple of Ramakrishna, launched famine relief work at Sargachi. Another direct disciple, Swami Brahmananda, became the first President of the Ramakrishna Order.
After Swami Vivekananda's death in 1902, Sarada Devi, Ramakrishna's spiritual consort, played a vital role in guiding the newly established monastic order with wisdom and compassion.
The Ramakrishna Mission in Baliati was originally established in 1910 at another location before being permanently relocated here. In 1329 Bengali Era (1922 AD), Haribolanath Roy Chowdhury purchased one bigha of land—approximately 33 decimals—for the present ashram. Two years later, in 1331 Bengali Era (1924 AD), Anga Devi Chowdhurani donated the beautiful main entrance gate that still stands today.
Another notable member of the family, Dinendranath Roy Chowdhury, was a dynamic personality who introduced large-scale football tournaments to Baliati. During his time, famous clubs such as East Bengal Club from Kolkata and Wari Football Club from Dhaka participated in these competitions.
To honour the memory of his father, Devendranath Roy Chowdhury, Dinendranath also built a permanent public well for both the Ramakrishna Mission and the local community on 9 Jyaishtha, 1331 Bengali Era (1924 AD). The well still survives today.
Every year, on the day of the Rath Yatra Festival, the Ramakrishna Mission serves free meals to thousands of devotees and visitors.
North Field
Between the Ramakrishna Mission and the Gadai Gouranga Math lies the historic Four-and-a-Half Ani Field, now popularly known as North Field. Today, this open ground hosts Baliati's traditional Dashami Fair on the final day of the annual Durga Puja festival. In earlier times, the fair used to be held north of the Nitai Gour Akhra. Coincidentally, today the ground is hosting the Rath Yatra Fair.
Gadai Gouranga Math
The Gadai Gouranga Math was established in 1936.
In memory of Brindaban Chandra Roy Chowdhury, the renowned zamindar of Pakutia in Nagarpur Upazila of Tangail District, his wife Shibsundari Roy donated a public well on the north-eastern side of this monastery for the benefit of local residents. The well, along with its original commemorative stone plaque, still survives today.
Nitai Gour Akhra
The Nitai Gour Akhra was established in 1318 Bengali Era (1911 AD) by Satyabala Dasi (Malini), a devoted attendant of the Six-Ani branch of the Baliati Eastern House Zamindar family. The zamindars of the Six-Ani estate provided both direct and indirect support for the construction of this temple.
There is an interesting story behind its foundation.
One night, Satyabala dreamed that two wooden idols of Nitai and Gour were floating down the Gazikhali River—also known by some as the Elan River—a distributary of the Dhaleshwari River flowing along the northern edge of Baliati. In her dream, she was instructed to recover the idols and establish them in a temple.
The following morning, she shared her dream with the zamindars. They immediately sent men to cast fishing nets into the river, and remarkably, the two wooden idols were recovered.
Using the savings she had accumulated from a lifetime of service, together with financial assistance from the zamindar family, Satyabala established the Nitai Gour Akhra and enshrined the sacred idols here.
The zamindars also donated valuable gold ornaments for the deities. A few years later, however, frequent thefts forced them to sell these ornaments. The proceeds were used to purchase agricultural land in the name of the temple so that the income from its harvest could permanently support the daily worship, festivals, and maintenance of the deities.
Even today, the income generated from those lands continues to fund the regular worship and religious ceremonies of Nitai and Gour.
The temple has recently been rebuilt while preserving its religious significance.
The Eastern House (Purba Bari)
Among the two sons of Dadhi Ram Saha, it was Ray Chand who greatly expanded Purbo Bari.
The Eastern House estate once covered a vast area of 16.40 acres. Of this, 5.88 acres were occupied by the main residential buildings, while the remaining 10.52 acres consisted of beautifully landscaped gardens. Much of that garden area has now been replaced by government buildings. The former gardens were located to the west, beside the large pond.
Ray Chand married twice. He divided his estate by granting ten annas of the property to the four children of his first wife and six annas to the children of his second wife.
As a result, this estate became known as the Ten-Ani Zamindar House and the Six-Ani Zamindar House.
Unfortunately, the Six-Ani House no longer exists. It once stood on the eastern side of the pond, where the Baliati Dakhil Madrasa and a government health centre have now been built.
Straight ahead, you can see the magnificent four buildings of the Ten-Ani Zamindar House. The large pond before us also belonged to the Ten-Ani estate, while the Ten-Ani Temple stands on our right.
Behind these buildings, to the south, lie the ruins of another historic structure.
Baliati Nawabat Khana
Hira Lal Roy Chowdhury of the Middle House built this elegant pleasure pavilion in the middle of a pond within his garden estate on the southern side of Baliati.
Known as the Nawabat Khana (or Naubat Khana), it originally served as a ceremonial music pavilion where traditional musicians performed on special occasions to announce important events and welcome distinguished guests.
Today, only the ruins of this once-beautiful structure remain, standing as a quiet reminder of Baliati's glorious past.
Purbo Bari:
As soon as you enter, you'll see four magnificent buildings standing side by side. Each building has its own grand entrance gate, and above every gate sits a beautifully sculpted lion. For this reason, these entrances are popularly known as the Lion Gates.
From west to east, local tradition identifies these four impressive mansions as the Boro Taraf, Mejho Taraf, Naya Taraf, and Chhoto Taraf.
The principal zamindars of these four branches were:
• Raj Chandra Roy Chowdhury – Boro Taraf
• Ishwar Chandra Roy Chowdhury – Mejho Taraf
• Bhagaban Chandra Roy Chowdhury – Naya Taraf
• Bhairab Chandra Roy Chowdhury – Chhoto Taraf
Historical records indicate that the zamindar families officially moved into these buildings in April 1893.
The four front buildings were mainly used for administrative work, business affairs, and receiving visitors, while the family's private living quarters were located behind them. We'll explore those shortly.
Boro Taraf:
The building on the far left belonged to Raj Chandra Roy Chowdhury, the head of the Boro Taraf.
This elegant three-storey mansion contains 24 rooms. To its left stands the theatre hall of the Baliati Public Club and Library, which was established here in 1966.
Just look at these enormous columns. The front veranda features a beautiful spiral staircase leading to the upper floors. Unfortunately, both the staircase and most of the rooms are closed to visitors.
Mejho Taraf:
The second building belonged to Ishwar Chandra Roy Chowdhury.
His son, Rai Bahadur Harendra Kumar Roy Chowdhury, established Ishwar Chandra English High School in his father's memory on 16 January 1919. Later in our tour, we'll visit the school and learn the tragic story that inspired its establishment.
Today, this second building houses the Baliati Museum.
On the ground floor, you'll find the massive iron safes once used by the zamindar family to store money, jewellery, and important documents.
A grand staircase leads to the upper floor, where the museum displays numerous chandeliers, mirrors, antique furniture, and many other belongings of the zamindars. Unfortunately, video recording is not permitted upstairs, so I can't show you everything.
However, you can still admire the beautifully crafted teakwood bed once used by the family.
Take a look at this staircase. These are the very steps the zamindars themselves once used every day.
Another son of Harendra Kumar, Gunendra Kumar Roy Chowdhury, was one of the most influential figures of the region.
He encouraged cultural activities by founding the amateur theatre group Arati Natya Samaj in Baliati.
He also played a leading role in establishing the Baliati Ramakrishna Mission in 1910.
Later, through his initiative, the Baliati Student Association was formed in 1920 to encourage reading habits and educational development among local school and college students.
Naya Taraf:
The third mansion is known as Naya Taraf, headed by Bhagaban Chandra Roy Chowdhury.
Unfortunately, its rooms remain closed to visitors.
Chhoto Taraf:
The fourth mansion belonged to Bhairab Chandra Roy Chowdhury, head of the Chhoto Taraf.
Like the Boro Taraf building, this mansion features massive classical columns and contains 23 rooms. However, visitors are not allowed inside.
The Inner Residential Quarters
The Baliati Zamindar Estate originally consisted of seven principal buildings, although they were not all constructed at the same time.
Behind the four front administrative buildings are the family's private residential quarters, known as the Andar Mahal.
The left most building, impressive three-storey residence contains 21 rooms. Just look at how long the building stretches across the estate.
In front of the second residential building, you'll notice two separate worship rooms located on either side.
The third residence is equally impressive in size.
Here you can see one of the estate's wells, which once supplied drinking water to the zamindar family. Originally, there were around six wells throughout the palace complex.
At the northend of the residencial area, there is the pond, which now has five bathing ghats.
Over here you'll find a row of old structures believed to have been toilets.
Some people say these were used by the zamindar family, but personally, I think they were more likely built for the estate staff. It seems unlikely that the zamindars themselves would have walked this far from their residences to use them.
Despite their wealth and architectural achievements, the zamindars were also known for many harsh and oppressive practices.
Ordinary people were not allowed to walk past the palace carrying an open umbrella. Anyone who violated this rule faced severe punishment.
Common villagers were forbidden from bathing or even using soap in the zamindars' ponds. Those who disobeyed were reportedly subjected to brutal punishments, including having heavy stones placed on their chest.
It is also said that if a beautiful young woman from a tenant's family attracted the attention of the zamindar, there was often little protection available for her.
If a tenant or employee wore clothing that resembled the attire of the zamindar family, they were expected to apologise and provide an explanation.
Likewise, under the zamindari system, any tenant who failed to pay land revenue could lose both their land and property.
Following the Partition of India in 1947, the zamindari system was officially abolished in East Pakistan in 1950.
Most members of the Baliati Zamindar family migrated to Kolkata, India.
From that time onward, the estate gradually fell into decline. Many valuable artifacts disappeared through theft, while the once-grand palace slowly deteriorated.
In 1966, the Baliati Public Club and Library was established within the estate. Two of its rooms are still in use today, and the presence of the club helped protect much of the palace from further destruction.
Finally, in 1987, the Government of Bangladesh, through the Department of Archaeology, took over the Baliati Palace complex. Since then, restoration and conservation work has continued to preserve this remarkable piece of Bangladesh's architectural and cultural heritage for future generations.
Entry Fees: General Visitors: BDT 30, Secondary School Students (SSC): BDT 10, Primary School Students: Free, Visitors from SAARC countries: BDT 200, Visitors from all other countries: BDT 400
Opening Hours: Sunday remains closed, Monday - 1:30 PM – 6:00 PM. Tuesday to Saturday - 10:00 AM – 1:00 PM and 1:30 PM – 6:00 PM. Friday: 10:00 AM – 12:30 PM and 2:30 PM – 6:00 PM. During the winter season, the site closes at 5:00 PM.
How to go: The easiest way to reach Saturia from Dhaka is to take a Dhaka–Nagarpur bus from Gabtoli Bus Terminal. This service was previously known as SB Link, but it now operates under the name Dhaka–Nagarpur. The bus travels through Dhamrai, Kalampur, and Saturia before reaching Nagarpur in Tangail District.
The bus fare is BDT 80 per person, and the journey usually takes around 2 hours. However, on Thursdays a large weekly market is held at Dhamrai Kalampur, which can increase travel time to nearly 3 hours due to heavy traffic.
The bus will arrive in Saturia via this road. Get off at this Y-shaped intersection. The bus will continue straight, while we will take the road on the right. Local auto-rickshaws charge BDT 10 per person for this short ride.
Ishwar Chandra English High School
On 16 January 1919, Rai Bahadur Harendra Kumar Roy Chowdhury, the son of Ishwar Chandra Roy Chowdhury, established Ishwar Chandra English High School in Baliati in memory of his father.
The school is associated with a deeply moving and tragic family story.
One day, Rai Bahadur Harendra Kumar was preparing to leave Baliati for Kolkata on zamindari business. At that time, his son Upendra Kumar suggested that the family should establish something meaningful that would preserve their family's legacy for future generations.
Harendra Kumar, however, became angry and rejected his son's proposal. As he continued preparing for his journey, the heartbroken Upendra Kumar went upstairs to the second floor of the family residence. In a moment of despair, he took a gun, rested its butt on a chair, pulled the trigger with his foot, and fatally shot himself in the chest.
Devastated by the loss of his son, Harendra Kumar immediately cancelled his trip to Kolkata. In memory of Upendra Kumar, he decided to establish a high school in Baliati so that future generations could benefit from education.
At that time, Rai Bahadur Harendra Kumar Roy Chowdhury spent more than 50,000 taka on the construction of the school—an enormous amount of money in that era. More than a century later, the school continues to educate students and remains one of Baliati's most important educational institutions.
To the west of Baliati Ishwar Chandra High School stands Baliati's first mosque, which was built in 1966 on land adjacent to the school.
An interesting chapter in Baliati's history is connected to this mosque.
In 1962, inspired by the school's head religious teacher, Maulana Mohammad Azizur Rahman, students offered the first congregational prayers with the Adhan (Islamic call to prayer) in Baliati. Before that, the call to prayer had never been heard in the village.
Until 1962, the sounds that echoed through Baliati were primarily the ringing of temple bells, the beating of ceremonial drums, and the traditional Ululation (Uludhwani) heard during Hindu religious festivals.
Today, alongside those familiar sounds, the melodious call of the muezzin rises from the mosque, reflecting the religious diversity of the community.
Baliati has long been a place where people of different faiths have lived together in harmony. Just as Muslims celebrate Eid, Hindus celebrate Durga Puja, the Dashami Fair, the Rath Yatra Festival, the Baruni Fair, and the Chaitra Sankranti Fair. These festivals are not only observed by their respective communities but are often shared and enjoyed together, reflecting the area's long tradition of mutual respect, coexistence, and communal harmony.
Hawa Khana Pond
Hira Lal Roy Chowdhury of the Middle House built this pleasure pavilion in the middle of a pond at his garden house on the southern side of Baliati. Nawabat Khana (or Naubat Khana) is a traditional music house or musical performance stage. The ruins of this structure can still be seen here today.
How to go: From Saturia Bus Stand, travel about 1 kilometre north toward Baliati. Alternatively, it is about 1 kilometre before reaching Saturia Stand from Baliati. However, you may not be able to simply tell an auto driver “Hawa Khana Pond,” as the driver may not recognize the name. Therefore, wherever you are coming from, tell the driver to take you to in front of DC Park.
Syed Kalu Shah's Mazar
Syed Kalu Shah Fakir was regarded as one of the great spiritual and accomplished mystics of the Indian subcontinent. He was born in 1809 or 1810 in what is now Sirajganj District. His father's name was Nitai Byapari, and his mother's name was Nurjahan Begum. After his birth, he was named Achimuddin. As a child, his mother affectionately called him Kalu because of his dark complexion. In later life, this Kalu became renowned as the great saint Syed Kalu Shah Fakir.
When Achimuddin was about 10 years old, his father Nitai Byapari came with his wife to visit his in-laws' home in Kaunnara village of Saturia, Manikganj. They were accompanied by their son, Achimuddin, and daughter, Shabani. Later, Nitai Byapari left his wife, son, and daughter at his in-laws' home and departed for his own home for business. It is still not known with certainty whether he ever returned.
From that time, young Kalu Shah grew up with his mother in Kaunnara village, at his maternal relatives' home. His maternal grandfather, Qurban Ali Sardar, was the leader of an influential Lathial group at that time. His uncles, Jamal Sardar and Kamal Sardar, wanted him to become a Lathial like them. However, at his mother's strong insistence, he was admitted to Kaunnara Rahafizia Madrasa. Within only a few years, Kalu Shah memorized the Holy Quran and earned the title Hafiz. Later, he took responsibility as the Imam of Kaunnara Mosque.
He would remain engaged in contemplation and spiritual practice late into the night, reflecting upon the mysteries of Allah's creation. At one stage of his spiritual journey, he realized that a spiritual guide was necessary. He then became a disciple of Hazrat Syed Shah Ataur Rahman Al-Qaderi and moved to Dhaka. Later, they established a spiritual residence at a place known as Haji-Gazi-Pir in Dhamrai, Dhaka. It was from here that Kalu Shah's spiritual influence and pure thoughts became increasingly known, and he became recognized as Kalu Shah Fakir. He would sleep very little during the day and spend much of the night engaged in meditation and spiritual practice.
According to local oral traditions, he would spend long periods in deep water engaged in meditation. It is also said that he once spent 41 days in spiritual practice inside a grave underground. Following his Pir's instructions, he reportedly engaged in spiritual practices several times in deep forests without food. He was also believed to possess spiritual abilities through which he could accurately describe events occurring several miles away. At times, he would stay at his spiritual residence near the river beside Saturia Bazaar, close to his maternal relatives' home.
Countless devotees came from distant places to be around him. He guided people toward peace and spiritual liberation in both their worldly and spiritual lives. Much of his advice and guidance to his devotees was delivered through songs. More than two thousand of his songs concerning spiritual philosophy, Marfati, Dehototto, and divine love are said to have spread among his countless followers throughout the country. His songs continue to carry the spiritual message associated with Syed Kalu Shah Fakir.
In 1905 AD, corresponding to 11 Agrahayan 1312 Bengali Era, he passed away at his maternal relatives' home in Kaunnara village of Saturia. He was buried beside the family home.
How to go: From DC Park, leave the park and follow the road about 400 metres south toward Saturia, and you will see the mazar.
Kolashur Zamindar Bari
Historical Landmark
This is a house that is approximately 200 years old. Zamindar Haridas built this house, and he also died here. Haridas had a brother named Keshab, who lived in this house. Keshab had a son named Dinesh Babu, who later moved to India.
Haridas's son was named Guru Das, and he also died in this very house. Guru Das had three sons—Ruhi Das, Narayan, and Parimal—and they too passed away here. These stories were shared by the wife of Parimal Babu, who is now quite elderly.
Parimal Babu had two sons. His elder son lives in Chattogram, while his younger son lives in Savar. We met the younger son's son, who still lives here.
There was once a time when this house was filled with grandeur and prosperity. After the zamindari system was abolished in 1950, much of that former glory gradually disappeared. During the period of fear surrounding the Pakistani military, many people sold their homes and properties and moved to India. However, this family remained here with their relatives and continues to live a very simple life.
It is a poignant reminder of the passage of time. Once, this was the home of a prominent and wealthy family of successful businessmen. Today, they continue to live within this approximately 200-year-old historic house, but in a much simpler way.
How to go: From Saturia Bus Stand, travel a short distance south until the road turns right and then takes a left turn.
We came along this road. On the other side, there are autos that travel through Kolashur toward Gawala. Although the auto will travel south, you need to go in the opposite direction from the way you are facing.
We got off at Kolashur. The fare was 25 taka per person. Simply tell the auto driver that you want to go to Kolashur Zamindar Bari, and the driver will drop you at the entrance to the road leading to the house.
Dhankora Zamindar House
Historical Landmark
In 1608, Emperor Jahangir established the city of Jahangirnagar, present-day Dhaka. At that time, in 1622, Mukunda Chandra Roy Chowdhury, an ancestor of the Dhankora zamindar family, was responsible for commanding 1,000 soldiers under the emperor in Dhaka. Because of this, he became known as “Mukunda Hazra.” At that time, his home was in Bakpur village in present-day Barishal District. The family belonged to the Rarhi Brahmin community and was known as the “Simnai of Bakpur.”
The last known ancestor of this family was Raj Prasad Roy Chowdhury. He had three sons. Among them, Ram Narsingha Roy Chowdhury was a highly educated and fortunate man.
During the reign of the last Nawab of Murshidabad and the early period of British rule, he lived in Mymensingh for business purposes. At that time, properties were auctioned through the Calcutta Board. He took advantage of these opportunities and gradually purchased a considerable amount of property.
After Narsingha Roy Chowdhury died, his son Rajkrishna Roy Chowdhury and his brother Ramkrishna Roy took charge of the Dhankora Estate. Rajkrishna managed the zamindari efficiently. He not only preserved his father's properties but also purchased many additional properties through his own initiative, increasing both the income and the territorial extent of the Dhankora zamindari.
Historical records show that Khaliajuri, a haor-surrounded upazila in Netrokona District of Bangladesh's Mymensingh Division, was once divided among nine zamindars—five Hindus and four Muslims—during the early period of British rule.
Around 1798, these nine zamindars became heavily indebted. They sold an eight-anna share of the Khaliajuri Pargana to Khaje Wallis, an Armenian resident of Armanitola in Old Dhaka, and leased the remaining eight-anna share to him for nine years.
Later, a dispute arose between Wallis and the original owners, and Wallis filed a compensation claim against them. Following a court decree in his favor, the properties were attached. With no other option, around 1809, the owners sold approximately eight annas of the leased portion—7 annas, 15 gonda, 2 kora, 1 kranti and 10 til—to Ramkrishna Roy and Rajkrishna Roy of Dhankora.
After Wallis's death, the Dhankora zamindar also purchased the share inherited by one of his two daughters. In this way, the Dhankora zamindar eventually acquired approximately 12 annas of the Khaliajuri Pargana, specifically 11 annas, 15 gonda, 2 kora, 1 kranti and 10 til.
Of this, a 4-gonda portion went to the zamindar of Kadamshree village in Madan Upazila of Netrokona as akhtarjoma property. The remaining four-anna share of the other sister was later acquired by the zamindar of Karatia in Tangail District.
After the death of Rajkrishna Roy Chowdhury, his son Girish Gobinda Roy Chowdhury was still a minor in 1856. As a result, the property was officially recorded in the names of the zamindars' wives, Rammni Devi and Brajmni Devi.
There is an important historical confusion here. Many people mistakenly identify Girish Gobinda Roy Chowdhury of Dhankora with Girish Chandra Roy Chowdhury of Baliati, and some historical accounts have been written based on this confusion. For example, some sources state that Girish Gobinda owned a printing press. However, according to this account, the printing press actually belonged to Girish Chandra Roy Chowdhury of Baliati.
During the time of Girish Gobinda Roy Chowdhury, he carried out several notable works. He established a Middle English School in Dhankora, contributing to the spread of education in the area.
After Girish Gobinda Roy Chowdhury's death, his son Hem Chandra Roy Chowdhury was still a minor. As a result, the zamindari and properties came under the supervision of the government's Court of Wards.
Hem Chandra Roy Chowdhury was born in Dhankora village in 1870. After reaching adulthood, he legally regained full ownership of his father's zamindari and properties in 1890.
In 1917, he spent more than 30,000 taka to upgrade the English school in Dhankora into a high school. He also established Girish Institution in memory of his father and built a large library in front of the school in his wife's name.
Hem Chandra Roy Chowdhury served as a member of the Manikganj Local Board and the Dhaka District Board. He had three sons: Amulya Chandra Roy Chowdhury, Birendra Chandra Roy Chowdhury, and Nirmal Chandra Roy Chowdhury.
According to the 1917 C.S. Record, the zamindars of the Dhankora Estate in Khaliajuri Pargana were Dinesh Chandra Roy Chowdhury and Hem Chandra Roy Chowdhury.
According to the 1952 S.A. Record, the zamindar was Usha Rani Roy Chowdhury, wife of Dinesh Chandra Roy Chowdhury.
At the time of the final zamindari acquisition, Dwijeś Chandra Roy Chowdhury was recorded as the zamindar of Dhankora Estate No. 2 in Khaliajuri Pargana. However, Dhankora Estate No. 1, belonging to Hem Chandra Roy Chowdhury, does not appear in the zamindari acquisition register, possibly because that portion was not surrendered.
Dinesh Chandra Roy Chowdhury, the zamindar of Dhankora, lived permanently on Northbrook Hall Road in Banglabazar, Old Dhaka. His son, Dwijendra Roy Chowdhury, was the zamindar of Dhankora. He was highly educated and studied in London. He lived with his family at their property on Northbrook Hall Road.
Following the Partition of India in 1947 and the Zamindari Abolition Act of 1950, the Dhankora zamindari system eventually came to an end.
In 1958, the descendants of Hem Chandra Roy Chowdhury left this magnificent palace and its vast properties behind and moved to India. Since the property was then considered to belong to Indian citizens, it became government property in 1965.
How to go: We’re going to Dhankora from Kolashur Zamindar House. So first, take an auto-rickshaw to Gowla.
Auto-rickshaws can be quite difficult to find here. As you can see, we didn’t come across a single auto-rickshaw while walking. So, take whatever you can find—whether it’s an auto-rickshaw or an auto-van—and go to Gowla. The fare is 10 taka per person.
We came to Gowla Bazar along this road. The road to the south goes to Dhankora, while the road to the east goes toward Gangutia in Dhamrai Upazila of Dhaka. There is another zamindar house there as well.
Since we are covering only Saturia Upazila, we’ll continue south by auto-rickshaw to Dhankora. The fare is 20 taka per person. Auto-rickshaws are also quite limited here, so you may have to wait for some time before finding one.
There is a shortcut route here. Instead of going all the way to Dhankora, you can get off at Bottola along the way. Let’s take a quick look at Bottola first.
We came along this road. This road continues to Dhankora. From here, we’ll take a shortcut and walk to Dhankora Zamindar House. This is a rural dirt path, so you’ll have to walk.
After walking along this path, you’ll come out through this narrow road. This road comes from Dhankora. And the zamindar house is in this direction. There it is, visible in the distance.
If you are coming from Dhankora Bazar, you can take this road and pass beside this food warehouse. Another easy way to recognize this road is that it is directly opposite Dhankora No. 8 Union Parishad.
Walk a little farther along this road and you’ll see a school—Dhankora Government Primary School.
This school was established in 1915. That means it has been spreading the light of education in this area for more than 100 years.
Beside Dhankora Government Primary School, there is also a secondary school established in memory of Dhankora's zamindar Girish Chandra Roy. It is called Dhankora Girish Institution. The school was established in 1917.
We’ll now walk along the road directly opposite.
Nahar Garden
Park
Visiting Time: 9 AM to 5 PM.
Entry Fee: 100 Taka
How to go: From Dhankora Bazar, you need to travel about 1.2 kilometers to Nayadingi Mor by auto-rickshaw. The fare is 10 taka per person.
From here, cross the road and take a bus for about 2 kilometers to Golora Bus Stand. After crossing the bridge, take an auto-rickshaw from this road and travel about 2 kilometers to the park. The fare is 10 taka per person.
On the other hand, from Saturia, board on to Golora bound auto and inform the driver to drop you on the way at Nahar Garden. Auto fair 20 Taka.
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